4 September, 2022
Steps and missteps on my path out of poverty
At 18 I was skint and got made homeless. It took a lot of graft, patience and mistakes to get out of that and into a moderate middle class lifestyle. Here’s how.
22 February, 2013
Finding a missing person in South America (and elsewhere)
I promised, ages ago, that I’d write up some tips on how to find somebody who’d gone missing in South America. Recently I had an email from somebody in the same situation which has spurred me into action. Since 1997 I’ve found or been found by my mother, my brothers and my sister. Here I’m […]
31 August, 2010
Off to San Pedro
Just about to start packing for San Pedro de Atacama. I’ve been there before, so it’s a relatively familiar spot, though I didn’t spend long in the town. So this time I’m going to explore the locality a little more. I’m even thinking of sticking with it for a week or so and treating as […]
29 August, 2010
Quiet Weekend in Arica
I’m staying put while I wait for the headstone to be finished and fitted, and consequently got to see an Arican weekend. There’s not a lot for me to do in many ways, so yesterday I spent some time going through all of my father’s papers and notebooks. I found evidence of one email address […]
28 August, 2010
Arrangements, part dos
Anyone who’s experienced the death of someone close to them will know that there is often a lot to do. No exceptions here, plus the added pressure of limited time. However, I’m not entirely unhappy about the time thing… makes me get things done. Cementaria Parque de Arica So, following the funeral I went yesterday […]
25 August, 2010
Arica – Day 1
For no obvious reason I’ve woken up really early today. Maybe it’s something to do with the herd of elephants that evidently checked in around 1am. Or the, ahem, charmingly rustic plumbing that means the noise levels in here pick up markedly as the hotel awakes. But it’s not a bad hotel, the Hotel Amaru, […]
24 August, 2010
Chris Coveney…the Introduction
I’ve started writing this post in Amsterdam airport…I’m on my way to Arica in Chile where I’ll be (hopefully) burying my father, Chris, who died on the 19th of July. I say hopefully not because this is something I’m looking forward to but because I face a number of legal and monetary issues with the […]
5 August, 2010
Lima, again.
A smidge under five years ago I created my first blog post as I started preparations for travel to South America. Today I’m preparing to travel to more or less the same destinations…but for sadder reasons. Two weeks ago my father died. A week ago a police officer knocked on my door to tell me […]
12 November, 2008
Cuzco by Night
Cuzco is one of those places – full of foreigners who got there and thought “hey… let’s stop a while longer” and then don’t leave for years. It’s vibrant, beautiful, friendly and prosperous. See it while it’s still relatively unspoilt. If you like this shot, you may wish to check out my photoblog, which I’m […]
9 July, 2006
That Botfly Story You’ve Heard From Me 10 Times Already
In the Peruvian jungle, along the Amazon, lurk mosquitoes carrying botfly eggs. Nothing exotic ever happens to me on trips, so finally, something interesting to write about. I’ve highlighted this post because since I first wrote about it, this page has been visited by over 100,00 people… who are probably somewhat more scared of jungles than they were before.
24 January, 2006
Gin Tonic in Lima Central
It was Douglas Adams that suggested that wherever you are in the universe, asking for something that sounds like “Gin and Tonic” will usually give you the same drink. Of course I’ve only been able to test this theory on Earth, but so far it had proven unbreakable. So in a non touristy town in […]
Peruvian Food
Peruvian food can be quite easily categorised into the following sections: Salty and meaty. Egg based. Dangerous. Salty and fishy. Scary. Salty and vegetarian. Touristic. Lomo Saltado is one of the classic dishes – fried and salted beef, served in a big pile with gravy, vegetables and chips – all mixed together. There may be […]
Machu Picchu
This place is the jewel in the South American tourist crown. An abandoned town at the top of a mountain that never got destroyed by the colonials – partly it seems because it just wasn’t all that important and a lot because of its rather inaccesible location. I won’t bore on about the history of […]
20 January, 2006
Safety when travelling
A lot of travellers worry about being robbed, kidnapped, raped, or jailed for trumped up drugs charges. But they get on a knackered bus, driven by a coca leaf chewing driver for 12hrs at a stretch, along the most dangerous roads in the world, without a second thought. I´m pretty certain more travellers die in […]
19 January, 2006
On top of t’world!
This is a complete re-write of the original, hurried, posting which failed to cover any detail about the Colca Canyon or Arequipa… or anywhere much that had passed between postings. I hadn’t realised I’d been so scarce with information. Arriving High at Arequipa We took what could only be described as a mobile sauna masquerading […]
12 January, 2006
Sand surfing in Huacachina
Would have liked to, but the thought of falling in sand and filling every nook and cranny of my body with sand just didn´t appeal! So instead we climbed up to the top of the biggest dune we could see, watched the sunset, and then ran down using these comedy strides of about six feet. […]
10 January, 2006
The road to Paracas
And now we find ourselves in Paracas – a four hour bus ride from Lima. It’s a tiny fishing village with a lot of restaurants good naturedly touting for business on the promenade, a small beach, a few hostels and a feeling of chaotic charm. It’s clearly poor as hell, but everyone seems happy too. […]
Del Carajo
At the end of the night a few of us were still ready to party. The reception went from 2pm to 11pm and to be honest… that’s not enough when you have the wind in your sails. Myself and Romana had wondered off from the group to investigate another party in the military base that […]
Wedding!
This was the primary reason for coming here! And hey, it rocked. As the bilingual service started I realised the priest had an obvious and clear Dublin accent. Turned out to be known to the extensive family network of John, the guy getting married. You could see a slight tenderness in John’s steps as he […]
Lima
Right – this is a posting from Paracas. Not had much time to post, and even now I only have half an hour before I’m expected to rejoin the group. Not exactly pricey though – it’s 1 soles for half an hour, which adds up to the almighty cost of 16p. I’m coming to the […]
7 January, 2006
Hotel Lost
Zgubilismy sie i to jak gupki. Wysiadajac z taksowki w pospiechu, nie wzielismy wizytowki i teraz siedzimy w kafejce szukajac adresu naszego hotelu. When a large group goes out together it’s inevitable that the group splits into small units. Myself and Romana went off in search of a backpack but neither of us checked if […]