Tag: desert

A Better Type of Criminal

Arica is a relative crime free city, but as with anywhere it pays to be attentive. Most crime in Chile is opportunistic in nature, as opposed to the occassional strangle muggings and minor ATM kidnappings you have to be wary of in Bolivia and Peru.

So I heard this story, of an eminent British archaelogist* I met there.  He and his wife had been eating in a restaurant on main street and it seems someone quietly removed their bag.

But what I found fascinating was that the thieves went to some trouble to return their passports to the consulate. Consequently they were able to continue their travels relatively unimpeded.

If only all criminals were so considerate.

* it’s not difficult to find an archaelogist in Arica…they’re attracted to the area like flies to the proverbial. The ultra-dry environment of the region preserves like no other place in the world.

San Pedro de Atacama revisited.

I remember San Pedro as being quite sleepy, with little accommodation available, but also with plenty of tourists and bars. It was sunny, warm, and pleasant.

This time around it’s somewhat less sleepy, a lot bigger (perhaps 2x? 3x?)…however, it’s the off-season and that means few tourists compared to the number of restaurants, so dining alone isn’t unusual and it somehow feels less social. It’s also relatively cool and very windy which means it’s as dusty as a building site.

I met some Americans in today’s restaurant of choice (Etnica, recommended) and I knew they’d just arrived because, simply put, they didn’t look dusty enough yet.  Seriously, it gets everywhere,  your hair takes on a thick appearance, and your clothes go orange.

Still, it’s not a bad place.  I’ve booked a four day trip to Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni. I’m also going shopping for clothes suitable for the very cold temperatures…it will be at least -15C. I’ve already shelled out too much for very nice thermals, complete with odour absorbing charcoal, important when you’re only going to have a chance to wash every two days! I’ll almost certainly be incommunicado for much of this also.  Consequently you’ll only get a splurge of info in four days or so.

I’m not even sure I’ll get to post this today…electricity has been off here for a few hours now.

Off to San Pedro

Just about to start packing for San Pedro de Atacama.

I’ve been there before, so it’s a relatively familiar spot, though I didn’t spend long in the town.  So this time I’m going to explore the locality a little more.  I’m even thinking of sticking with it for a week or so and treating as a relaxing holiday, with a trip planned to Salar de Uyuni for a few days (if I can find one) as well as other shorter jollies.

I had been thinking of heading to La Paz, but I’ve been warned that Bolivia’s a bit of an unstable place right now and, just two weeks ago, a group of travellers were stranded in Uyuni for 19 days due to a blockade by local protesters.

As a consequence, I feel that I may be better off not spending more time than strictly necessary in the country.  Although I’ll miss out on La Paz and some other sights I’d rather make sure I can get home in a timely manner and without stress or hassles.

Anyway, one highlight is that because this is an El Niño winter it has rained in parts of the desert and that means the chance of seeing a so-called ‘blooming desert’ when all the flowers come out.

If that’s the case I could be returning for a day or so to Arica.  This isn’t a bad thing as one piece in my father’s puzzle still needs to be researched, and I will be able to attend to that on my return.  It’s not a big thing, but something I’d like to do if possible.

Then it will be on to Lima for a night or two depending on flights, and home.  Can’t wait to get back to the family, to be honest, and it’s just 12 days away now!

So, tonight, after another little spell at the English Institute giving students some practice, I’ll hop on a bus for a twelve hour ride to San Pedro.  Of course, this brings up people saying that I’m a hard core traveller.  But really, this is what you probably think I’m riding on http://www.contemporarynomad.com/2008/09/ whereas the reality is that I’ll have a semi-cama seat as shown here: http://www.turbus.cl/servicios.html and riding in a modern, well maintained coach.  It’s not so bad!

Sand surfing in Huacachina

Would have liked to, but the thought of falling in sand and filling every nook and cranny of my body with sand just didn´t appeal!

So instead we climbed up to the top of the biggest dune we could see, watched the sunset, and then ran down using these comedy strides of about six feet. And got sand filling every nook and cranny of my body. Ah well.

The oasis at Huacachina is a lovely spot… but somehow felt a little sad. It was hard to put a finger on it – the rubbish at the bottom of the sand dune we climbed, perhaps, or the absolute lack of life around the oasis itself in the evening. The place we stayed had a nice vibe and the best chips I found in South America, but the rooms were the dirtiest and most bug infested of the trip. I never realised how much a tiny ant could bite until I disturbed some. This prompted my usual, rational response to bugs that bite me… KILL! KILL! KILL! Yes – my usual pacifist response disappears after I experience pain.

It´s weird coming from Europe. I thought parts of spain looked like a desert, but in comparison…. it´s nothing. In Paracas it rains 1.5mm a year. In the desert we´re in now it´s something like once every decade.

Anyway, for now it´s time for beer… tara!