Extreme Landscapes

I’m now back in Arica following my trip to San Pedro de Atacama and Bolivia.  I have a couple of things to deal with here before heading back to Lima for my flight home.

I’ve been foiled by this computer in the hotel from getting a decent image gallery up from the last eight days or so.  That means that until I return home you’ll have to take my word for it that the landscape we saw in South West Bolivia was some of the most extreme that I’ve come across in my life.

It’s well known that when a space scientists wants conditions similar to Mars for some experiments they tend to come to this part of the world.  It really is that way out.  That flamingoes, vicuñas and a fair other range of animals manage to live here is remarkable.

Bitterly cold at night and with burning sunshine in the day, it was hard to be properly prepared at all times.  You’d go from being wrapped in five layers to trying to get as much off as possible.  All whilst trying to avoid getting badly sunburned.  Even our more latin members of the group were looking red.  Me?  Well I’d bought this Chilean waterproof sun cream which Pablo tried at one point and which he described as being like paint.  If you didn’t rub it in enthusiastically it left you looking white like a ghost.

Still, it worked, mostly.  My lips are chapped like crazy, and my hands look like an old man’s – super dry air, cold and salt took their toll.

So until I return home to fast computers I’ll just leave you with the one picture I managed to get off the big camera.  It’s a whirlwind that we watched crossing the Laguna Blanca.  The dust is borax, believe it or not…

bolivia borax whirlwind
A whirlwind in the Bolivian Altiplano

Laguna Colorada, Bolivia

We’re about 120km from the nearest town, so zero connectivity here. This will be posted on my return.

We’re at around 4900m up in a small hostel near Laguna Colorada. By Bolivian standards it’s comfortable but the altitude is really hard work and I’ve learned to be careful not to stand up too quickly.

It’s been a day of extreme scenery, sometimes feeling positively martian (in fact, scientists studying mars use the Atacama as the nearest option available on our planet). At Laguna Verde we took advantage of the hot spring there, but I quickly regretted it when getting out. Heat + cold + altitude made many of us dizzy and I never recovered all afternoon.

But that didn’t diminish the joy of seeing thousands of flamingoes here at Laguna Colorada. An amazing sight along with clouds of borax blown up by the winds.

The group I’m riding with is pretty cosmopolitan, Alex a Swedish/French guy, Diana a Spanish girl, Karim, with German, French and Arabic backgrounds and Pablo from Chile with Russian ancestry.  And they’re a great bunch to travel with…a lot of jokes and ribaldry.

My hope now is that I acclimatise quickly, but the diet isn’t really full of iron so I’m not optimistic.

Tonight we’re sleeping in the coldest room I ever sat in. It’s -8 and there’s no freaking heating. With all that geothermal energy just beneath us this is irritating to say the least. And it makes me wonder how Andean peoples ever reproduce.

On the upside going outside reveals an amazing starscape. So much is visible it takes your breath away (as does the cold and altitude, but hey, I had some left!)  I’ve taken photos which will be added to the gallery on my return.  Just wait and see.